Posts Tagged ‘Limited Edition’
Ateliers deMonaco Officially Announces In-House Minute Repeater
High-end new comer Ateliers deMonaco yesterday officially announced the introduction of their very first, fully in-house developed and manufactured Minute Repeater: the Carré d’’Or Squelette Grand Tourbillon Répétition Minute TB-RM1. An exceptionally attractive and complicated piece, this latest invention grants Ateliers deMonaco entrance to a very exclusive club, made up of just a few select watch makers around the world, that have the ability to design and manufacture such a complication in-house.
This bold move reinforces the brand’s commitment to quality and high-end innovation and further raises the standard for excellence they set themselves when they first launched in 2008.
A Work Of Art
Although the first, completed watch was actually “unofficially” on show at the Geneva Time Exhibition, the official launch has been delayed till Basel World as a result of the time required to make each masterpiece.
And its not hard to see why.
All you need to do look at this new piece from the Monaco based manufacturer and it is immediately evident the attention to detail and level of craftsmanship required to create a timepiece of this standard. It is truly a work of art.
The square shaped case is fast becoming Ateliers deMonaco trademark and this particular model has received some extra special attention with the beautiful hand cut open dial affording the wearer an obstructed view of the superb in-house movement and patented XP 1 minute tourbillon.
Broken into seven main parts the case features curve shaped 18k gold side panels and an ultra light titanium core. The activation mechanism for the minute repeater is also made of titanium and integrated into the side panel at the 9 o’clock position. Ensuring the stunning mechanism can be appreciated from as many angles as possible the sapphire crystals on both the front and back have received multi-layered anti reflection coating.
In total there are 55 parts that make up the exquisite case, each of which has brushed, polished and assembled by hand. At 46 x 50 MM it’s certainly not a small watch but then again, why would you want to hide away something as spectacular as this?
The ornately hand-engraved movement © Ateliers deMonaco
Stunning Inside And Out
Unlike some other brands that spend all their time on decorating the case and leave the movement relatively untouched and hidden away behind the dial, Ateliers deMonaco ensures that their Caliber receives equal attention from the artisans (as you can see in the above image).
Showcasing another one of the brand’s signature trademarks the TB-RM1 movement is hand engraved on the front and back and features a sunbeam pattern carved into the main plate of the movement (which, by the way is made of Ruthenium or as its more commonly known, black gold).
The movement is manually wound and offers a respectable 48 hour power reserve. Other highlights include a custom made, hand engraved tourbillon cage with a sapphire bridge for the tourbillon, silicium escape wheel and silicium lever. The speed of the tourbillion is regulated by 18k gold weights and thanks to the beautifully complex Minute Repeater complication the chiming hours, quarters and minutes are available on command.
The watch is presented on a hand-stitched, alligator leather strap with an adjustable 18k gold folding buckle. Offered in a highly limited edition of just 8 pieces worldwide, the Carré d’’Or Squelette will come in a special box that has been designed as a resonance instrument, allowing for the amplification of the Minute Repeater’s chimes.
Set to be revealed to public at Basel World 2010, expect the price to be well over US$100,000.
A close up view of the hand engraved tourbillon with sapphire bridge © Ateliers deMonaco
The Final Word
Although Ateliers deMonaco is a relative new-comer to the high-end luxury watch industry it is clear that the brand is committed to making extraordinary pieces that stand apart from their competitors. Rather than looking for cheaper alternatives, as many brands have been forced to do in these turbulent time, they are investing the capital required to create a truly first class manufacturer.
Expect to see many more spectacular pieces from this ambitious brand in the years to come.
3 Great Comments. Leave one too. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, Exclusives and Previews
Thomas Prescher TempusVivendi Qatar Watch
The name Thomas Prescher will forever by synonymous with the words Master Watchmaker. Credited with creating the first ever Flying Triple Axis Tourbillon, an exceptionally complicated timepiece, back in 2004 Prescher’s craftsmanship is highly lauded the world over. So when he was recently asked to create a watch with a flag or national symbol you could bet it was going to be anything but ordinary and true to his reputation, Mr Prescher has not disappointed.
National Pride
The country Mr Prescher was asked to incorporate into his design was Qatar, that often overlooked tiny Arab Emirate which happens to be home to the third largest gas reserves and the second highest GDP per capita in the world (thank you Wikipedia).
The starting place for all time sculpture manufactured by Prescher is the design. As the only instruction he had been given was that this unique piece should incorporate the country’s flag or national symbol Prescher decided to learn as much as could about Qatar. After a lot of research about this exceptional country it was a picture of its Coat of arms that caught his eye and subsequently inspired the ‘TEMPUSVIVENDI Qatar’.
The coat of arms of Qatar shows two crossed swords in a yellow circle. Between the swords there is a traditional sailing ship called dhow, sailing over the waves beside an island with two palm trees. The yellow circle is surrounded by a white and brown band, which is divided horizontally with a zigzag line.
It is this image that forms the backdrop of the beautifully sculpted Arabesque dial. At first look the design appears deceptively simple but this masks the true genius at work here. Time is indicated by the sword tips; one shows the minutes while the other indicates the hours. The movement incorporates a retrograde function which means that after the swords reach the end of the index sector they jump back to the beginning to rise again.
It doesn’t stop there, however. After pushing the button in the crown the swords move to a resting position to show the original coat of arms in gold and noble colours. After a second push the swords move back to continue to show the actual time.
Thomas Prescher has developed this exquisite concept to give the connoisseur the choice: Having the figure continuously showing the time or allowing it to simply remain in its non-temporal state. This could be only achieved through the use of a complicated and ingenious new system, which he created specially for his watches, after studying and repairing old originals.
Whilst it’s all well and good to try and describe this phenomenal piece it is far easier to just show you. Fortunately for us, Thomas has created a video (which he was kind enough to send me) that exhibits this stunning piece in action. Check it out below:
The Final Word
The TEMPUSVIVENDI Qatar is yet another dazzling example of what this great man is capable of. Showcasing superb creativity with highly complex watch making mastery Thomas Prescher continues to impress both admirers and critics alike.
Now for the exciting news. The Watch Lounge will be interviewing Mr Prescher in the coming weeks in a humble bid to get some form of insight into this great man’s exceptional mind. Keep your eyes out for that one, it is sure to be amazing!
As always, any suggestions for questions are more than welcome.
Prometheus Ocean Diver Automatic Now Available – Don’t Miss Out!
It’s not often you see someone convert their hobby into a commercial reality and with good reason. It’s not easy! When it does happen, however, the result can sometimes be something truly special, as is the case with the new Ocean Diver from the Prometheus Watch Company. This small Portuguese boutique manufacturer was only established in 2008 but thanks to their unswerving commitment to quality and their willingness to listen to feedback their latest offering is already a hit with enthusiasts the world over.
Realizing A Dream
What makes the Ocean Diver even more special is that it has been designed by watch enthusiasts for watch enthusiasts. The original concept was born from a competition run on the Watchuseek Watch forums and it was from these same forums that Prometheus received the valuable feedback on the design and functionality of the prototypes that helped shape the final product.
Don’t think for one minute it was a smooth ride though because the reality is it was anything but.
If At First You Don’t Succeed…
The final result you see here now is the combination of hard work, persistence and the willingness of Prometheus to go to back to the drawing board. You see, the first version of the Ocean Diver, whilst of a reasonable quality, was simply not up to the high standards the company had set for itself. The only solution therefore was to effectively go back to the beginning and start again. New contractors, new suppliers, new everything!
It certainly can’t have been easy but by all accounts it seems like it was the right thing to do. The new Ocean Diver is already a hit with enthusiasts and it’s not surprise really. The evolution of this watch has been much like that of a t-shirt on Threadless, the website where users vote on their favorite designs and only the winning designs are actually made into t-shirts. The result is that the t-shirts always sell out, as the company is only producing a product that their customers actually want.
Without wanting to jump the gun I would suggest that with a limited production of only 500 units, it is highly likely that the Ocean Diver Automatic will also sell out.
And why shouldn’t it? This is really a top quality timepiece. The design is very retro and in part takes its inspiration from brands such as Jaeger Le-Coultre, IWC and Longines who used super compressor cases back in the 1960’s for their dive watches. The design cues are really quite obvious, the internal rotating bezel, large numbered dial, and even the case itself all look like they were designed in decades past. At the same time though, this watch creates and retains its own unique character which is incredibly important in today’s crowded market.
Designed for recreational divers and land dwellers alike, the Ocean Diver features a super compressor case and is water resistant to 300 meters, which is respectable for a dive watch of this caliber. At 42mm it is a touch on the small side for a diving watch in my opinion, but the clever design and clear dial mean that it is still very easy to read. On the right hand of the case you will notice two crowns, one for setting the time and date and the other for controlling the internal rotating bezel.
Attention to detail in the design of this watch is evident from every angle, and so it should be! It was manufactured in the spiritual home of watch-making, the world famous Swiss Jura Mountains and is powered by a Swiss Made automatic ETA 2836 mechanical movement with a Day-Date complication.
Now, here is the real kicker. Not only is this watch exceptionally well designed and beautifully presented it is also only EUR339.00 or roughly a bit under US$500. Now do you see why I say all 500 pieces will sell out very shortly? Add to that a two year warranty and a lovely silicon strap and you have to ask yourself why are you still reading this article when you could be buying this watch?
The Final Word
The new Ocean Diver Automatic Day/Date is the perfect example of what a company can achieve when they make a commitment to and listen and actively respond to their customers. This really is an excellent quality timepiece for an unbelievably affordable price. What’s even more exciting is that there are at least two more models in the works, a GMT and a Chronograph version.
So why hesitate? Visit the Prometheus Watch Company now and secure your own little piece of the watch history.
Vulcain Cricket X-Treme Diver Automatic – Designed For Adventure
You may recall that a few months ago we discussed a special edition Anniversary Heart Cricket watch by Vulcain that had been gifted to President Barack Obama by the manufacturer to celebrate his Presidential inauguration. Although it stirred a little bit of controversy, the watch itself was quite stunning and really showed off the quality of work being produced by this lesser known manufacturer. Recently the brand has unveiled a new model in the Cricket line-up, the very sporty and adventurous Cricket X-treme Automatic.
Sleek and Practical
This new model has a far sportier feel than the Anniversary Heart gifted to Mr Obama, and with good reason. According to the brand, this versatile measuring instrument has been designed for adventurers and represents the next step forward for Vulcain and its models, which have already accompanied the most famous explorers from mountain peaks to ocean depths.
At first look the watch certainly appears to be quite robust, capable of handling the rigours of exploring mountain peaks and board rooms alike. The case size is a generous (although almost standard these days) 44 mm and is available in titanium and steel or black titanium and steel versions. The lay out of the dial is very clean and easy to read and the overall aesthetics of the piece are further accentuated by the asymmetrical arrangement of the fast date-correction pusher at 10 o’clock and the alarm corrector placed between 2 and 3 o’clock.
Practicality is further enhanced by the fluted rotating outer bezel serving as a 60-minute counter, as well as by the new Superluminova-coated hour-markers and hands, making the watch easy to read regardless of the level of light available. Disappointingly though, the watch is only rated at a water resistance of 100m which is a consequence of the alarm function. Whilst this may not be a huge issue for most mainstream consumers, it does seem a little on the low side for a dive watch designed for professional explorers.
As the Cricket series are renowned for their exceptionally audible mechanical alarms the sapphire crystal case-back ensures ideal sound diffusion both in water or in the open air. Furthermore the titanium case enhances the acoustic quality of the watch ensuring you will hear the alarm in any extreme situation you find yourself in.
It certainly looks the part, but has it got the specs to back it up? Vulcain seems to think so.
Cricket V-21 Alarm Calibre
With its clean lines and strong design this new model blends active practicality with notable technological breakthroughs. The major new development in the X-Treme Automatic is the self-winding Cricket V-21 alarm calibre driving it. A modified and presumably improved version of the highly celebrated Cricket Calibre V-10, this new self-winding alarm calibre is a 12-lignes (12’’’) movement equipped with two barrels: one to supply the energy required for the hour, minute and seconds functions, and the other to power the alarm function which sounds for a full 20 seconds.
The movement itself is relatively complex, consisting of 257 parts and features unidirectional winding via the bimetallic oscillating weight fitted with a ceramic ball-bearing mechanism. It beats at a cadence of 18,000 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve. All this works together in perfect harmony to drive the central hour, minute and seconds hands, a date display, as well as a 60-minute graduated counter activated by the unidirectional rotating bezel – and of course the signature alarm function characteristic of Vulcain watches.
Two black-coated steel and titanium versions are available in limited numbered editions of 300 each: a black/blue self-winding CRICKET X-TREME model and a black/white self-winding CRICKET X-TREME variation.
The Final Word
Those of you who are familiar with the original and infamous Cricket alarm calibre upon which Vulcain has built their reputation since 1947 will agree that this is a movement of exceptional pedigree. Thus, it is very exciting to the see the introduction of the new V-21 calibre which really is the culmination of over 60 years of fine-tuning and improvement of the original incarnation.
Add to this the fact that the watch really is quite visually attractive whilst at the same time remarkably practical and you really have a winning combination on your hands.
For more information check out Vulcain’s website.
MB&F And Alain Silberstein Present: Horological Machine No 2.2
Pure genius. Unabated and unrelenting. This is the only way I can think to describe French high-end watch designer Alain Silberstein’s stunning reimagination of MB&F’s Horological Machine No2. Subtle, refined and yet at the same time completely alluring this new model, called Horological Machine No2.2, will absolutely take your breath away. The starkness of the case, affectionately known in-house as “the black box”, contrasts so beautifully with the playful, colorful dials that you cannot help but stare. Nothing else on the market even comes close to this.
What’s In A Name?
The name is unmistakably similar to its predecessor and this is indicative of the fact that the twin porthole dials remain the focal point. However don’t let allow this sense of familiarity to fool you, Mr Silberstein has successfully achieved his goal of completely changing the character of this watch. According to the master himself, his vision was for Horological Machine No2.2 to combine the pure geometry of the Bauhaus with the user-friendliness of the miniature box cameras of the 1940s. And what a visionary he is!
A Case Like No Other
For a man renowned for his generous use of color, Mr Silberstein has been remarkably reserved in his design of the all-black case and this will undoubtedly surprise many MB&F followers. Yet to me this is where the true genius lays. By creating something completely unexpected MB&F will truly delight and inspire their dedicated fans whilst at the same time continuing to challenge the perception of the brand. Just when you think they will do one thing, they go and do something completely different!
The rectangular shaped case is carved out of a solid block of titanium, resting on the original substructure. This multi-layered construction gives the watch its powerful, richly engineered profile. However, it is impossible to truly give credit to it in still photographs. Alain Silberstein is design genius, working with the light, like a diamond-cutter, to achieve a play of mat and polished surfaces that can only be truly appreciated when the watch is worn.
The titanium case is treated with an exclusive PVD coating incorporating silicium, giving the case a soft touch and particularly intense black colour. All the characters on the twin displays were designed by Alain Silberstein and contrast exceptionally against the black canvas. Even the moon’s expressive face was inspired by a treasured cartoon from the Art Nouveau period. As a final touch the vibrant red numerals, markers and hands are coated in Superluminova for easy night reading.
The new case will be issued in a limited edition of eight watches.
Heart Of Beauty
The covert case of the new MB&F Horological Machine No2.2 houses the same revolutionary “engine” as Horological Machine No2, introduced in 2008 and featuring the world’s first mechanical movement combining an instantaneous jumping hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, bi-hemisphere moon phase and automatic winding.
Conceived In The Name Of Friendship
In recognition of MB&F’s true ethos an inscription on the reads: “Le vrai bonheur est d’avoir sa passion pour métier” (“True happiness is having one’s passion for a profession”). That is Alain Silberstein’s motto, and he found his soul mates in MB&F. He says that the whole point was the pleasure of working together, and Maximilian Büsser agrees. “Alain is a true artist, but he never takes himself too seriously. He has kept that childlike spirit of adventure, and that is something that we at MB&F hold dear”.
The Final Word
From day one MB&F have never failed to bedazzle and beguile fans. There are no barriers as conventional thinking is tossed carelessly out the window. This latest creation seamlessly reflects that mentality, conceptualising something completely unexpected yet at the same time when you see it, you think “of course, that is just what I was hoping for!”
I said it before and I will say it again. Pure genius. Thank you Mr Busser and Mr Silberstein, this is truly a gift.
For more information check out the official MB&F website.
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