This is it, call off the search, I have found my offical ‘black-tie’ watch! Although I have always been somewhat of an admirer of the Dual Time collection from Ulysse Nardin, it wasn’t until they introduced the Executive Dual Time that I really fell in love.
Although the classic styling of the Dual Time series has been retained it is the incorporation of that super sleek material ceramic into the design that has really caught my attention. Ceramic is best known for its scratchproof and durable qualities, having found previous uses in medicine and Formula 1 racing, and if used correctly can really set off a piece with its glossy finish. Such is the case with the Executive Dual Time which catches the eye and then mesmerizes you with its subtlety.
Not Just A Pretty Face
As the name suggests the Executive Dual Time is animated by Ulysse Nardine’s patented Dual Time system. When the wearer presses the plus and minus pushers at the 8 and 10 o’clock position they instantly adjust the hour hand to a different time zone while the home time indicator located at 9 o’clock continues its 24 hour cycle. This complication is not only delightful to behold it is also incredibly useful.
The Executive Dual Time offered in both stainless steel and 18 ct rose gold in combination with stunningly sculpted ceramic bezel and ceramic pushers.
The case is a little on the large size at 43mm, especially for a dress watch but a watch this nice never looks out of place.
The self-winding movement mechanism is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
The unique black dial is finished off with oversized Roman numerals and three-dimensional chiseled hands.
Each 43mm case is individually numbered and equipped with a black lacquer screw-crown.
The Final Word
This stunning look watch certainly won’t suit all tastes (or budgets) but for me I think Ulysse Nardin has really hit the nail on the head. I love the combination of the stainless steel with the smooth ceramic finish and the design of the dial lends the watch some character, which I find is often missing in evening wear watches attempting to maintain a low profile.
As previously mentioned the watch is certainly not small at 43mm, but then again, why would you want to hide away something as breathtaking as this?
It seems that black is back and its here to stay. I for one could not be happier. Especially when you consider the number of high quality, stealth look watches that have been steadily introduced to the market over the last 12 months.
Wyler Genève Code-R chronograph
Take for example the new full-black Code-R chronograph from Wyler Genève. The brushed titanium case is subtle and refined yet the all black styling gives it a hint of toughness and reliability. And for a watch brand so closely linked with motorsport, reliability is key. That’s why the Code-R is powered by arguably one of the most reliable Swiss automatic chronograph movements presently on the market (at least within this price range) and has a power reserve of 42 hours.
Further demonstrating its strong links to motor racing the Code-R takes it design cues from the materials and technology used in the sport. As previously mentioned the external casing is made from lightweight yet incredibly resilient titanium with carbon-fibre resin for its inner frame. The rubber-coated crown is reticent of a car tyre and the chronograph pushers are pedal-shaped.
Function Over Form
However, just as in motor racing, design plays second fiddle to practicality in the Wyler Genève chronograph. A watch, no matter how stunning, has little use if it cannot be read and this problem is further magnified on an all-black timepiece such as the Code-R. To counter this, the hands and minute track numerals are coated with black SuperLuminova which ignite the dial at night to allow the user to view it clearly.
Ensuring comfortable wearing the Code-R is fitted as standard with a black rubber bracelet with pushbutton-operated fold-over clasp in steel and titanium and comes with a 2-year warranty.
The Final Word
Wyler Genève make stunning watches and the Code-R chronograph is no exception. The subtle stealthy allure of the watch cannot be denied and although I generally do not like titanium casing I would most certainly make an exception in this case (excuse the pun). This would make a great every day watch or a very nice addition to any collection.
Check out www.wylergeneve.com for more information.
In a world of increasingly complicated and cluttered watch dials this new offering from Louis Erard takes a far more modest approach, with anything but modest results! Classic, unpretentious, reliable: the 1931 collection is dressed in its most beautiful finery in this chocolate-toned moon phase version. One look at its simple yet very delicate design and you will fall under its seductive spell. This timepiece doesn’t so much ask for attention as command it, with its subtle features combining seamlessly into a brazen, and yet at the same time refined, statement of style.
This watch will certainly not suit all comers yet this only serves to add to its allure. Like its future owners, this timepiece has no time for fanfare or frivolities. If you are looking for a new watch that will make a bold statement to the masses, then the Louis Erard is not for you. However, if you are a more refined consumer looking to reflect your sophisticated appreciation for the finer things in life, then the 1931 Collection is definitely worth you consideration.
To further whet your appetite, the following specifications give an indication of this watch’s hertiage:
- Movement – Automatic, ETA 2824-2, Dubois Dépraz 9000 module
- Functions – Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon phases
- Case – Stainless steel, 40 mm, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m
- Dial – Chocolate, applied silvered hour-markers
- Bracelet/Strap – Chocolate leather with stainless steel folding clasp
- Other versions – Small seconds with hand-wound mechanical movement, Peseux 7001 calibre
- GMT Large Date with automatic mechanical movement, ETA 2892, TT651 module
The Louis Erard 1931 Classic Moon Phase, for those who appreciate the beauty of pure refinement.