Posts Tagged ‘luxury’
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Tuscar From McGonigle
John McGonigle © Harry Sk Tan
As you well know by now, we love introducing you to new and original timepieces here on The Watch Lounge. Well this week’s piece from Irish watchmakers McGonigle is so new and original that there aren’t even photos available yet! However, given this young brand’s success with their first piece, a superb watch featuring a stunning tourbillon complication which received critical acclaim for the purity of its design and function as well as for it’s high standard of workmanship and finish, this latest creation promises to impress.
McGonigle Watches
It’s not often you come across Irish watchmaking brothers, however, John and Stephen have forged quite a name for themselves in the exclusive circle of independent manufacturers. Whilst you may not immediately recognize their names, chances are you would have seen their work in some form or another. Both men spent many years working on complicated timepieces with some of the most prestigious brands in Switzerland, before deciding to launch their own brand, “McGonigle Watches” in 2007 at Baselworld.
The Tuscar
Now they have embarked on the next step of their journey with the announcement of their newest creation. Named the “Tuscar”, in reference to a group of rocks with a lighthouse that is often the first part of Ireland seen by those approaching by sea from the west, this new piece features the brand’s new time-only in-house calibre movement.
And believe us, this in-house caliber has some serious credibility.
“First-look” – A drawing of the new Tuscar from McGonigle © McGonigle
“To ensure the success of our new calibre, we teamed up with the legendary Alberto Papi, one of Switzerland’s finest designer constructors, to help refine our movement design and specifications.” says Stephen McGonigle.
That’s Alberto Papi, as in Renaud et Papi. Need we say more?
Retaining the qualities that were so successful in their tourbillon, including its distinctive design elements and transcendental levels of fine finishing, the brothers have taken these unique features and distilled them to their pure essence in the Tuscar.
According to John McGonigle, the intention was to create a “time-only watch with a high focus on excellent timekeeping; a substantial power reserve; solid reliability; and with superb finishing and decoration. The design had to have a clean coherent style and we wanted the principle mechanical elements visible on the dial side. To achieve all of that we had to develop our own movement from the ground up.”
Sounds amazing!
The Tuscar launches with a subscription-only limited edition series of 10 pieces called, “One of Ten”, featuring a white gold case and a transparent sapphire dial revealing all of the subtleties of the stunningly finished movement beneath.
The boy’s first creation, the McGonigle Tourbillon © Ian Skellern
As a subtle point of further differentiation each watch will be marked “One of Ten” rather than traditional method of individual numbering. This first series will be distinctive from the models to follow by virtue of materials used in the movement, the design and shape of certain bridges, the type of finish of individual parts and the engraving.
The Final Word
The McGonigle brothers are true independent watchmakers. The focus is completely on quality, originality and craftsmanship. Nothing is rushed and every step taken is well thought-out and planned in detail. These are watches that are created purely for the love of watch making by two exceptionally talented craftsmen.
If you are looking for a high quality, superbly finished timepiece than look no further, you’ve just found one of the most underrated brands in the industry.
To find out more visit McGonigle’s official website – www.mcgonigle.ie
Tuscar – Technical Specifications
Calibre: McG01 manual-wind mechanical movement
Double mainspring barrels connected in parallel
Power reserve: 90 hours
Balance: free sprung balance spring with Breguet overcoil
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph/3hz.
Balance diameter 12.8mm (large diameter for timekeeping stability)
Gold escape wheel (to function without oil)
Number of jewels: 31
Case
22k white gold case and crown
Case diameter: 42.5mm
Crystals: Anti-reflective treatment on both top crystal and display back
Water resistance: 30 metres/ 3ATM
Dial & Hands
Transparent sapphire dial
Flame-blued hand-polished steel and hand-polished gold hands
Strap & Buckle
Hand engraved 18k white gold deployant buckle.
Black hand-stitched alligator
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under New This Week, Weird Watch Wednesday
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
On-The-Wrist Review: Longio SG3824A Flying Tourbillon
© The Watch Lounge
Recently there’s been a fair bit of discussion about the real value of a tourbillon complication here on The Watch Lounge and it was very positive to see reader’s voicing their opinions and getting involved in the discussion. What you may not realise was that the original catalyst for that article was a new timepiece we were lucky enough to get our hands on from Hong Kong based manufacturer Longio Watch Company. What makes this piece special is that not only is it fitted with a Chinese-made Seagull movement with flying tourbillon complication, but the actual case, dial, and so forth have all been made in-house. And to be honest, they haven’t done too bad a job.
On-The-Wrist
It’s no secret that China has been making watches, especially copies of high-end brands, for quite some time now. However, what is starting to happen is that these companies which traditionally manufactured components for European brands are starting to enter the luxury watch market themselves, with their own original branded products.
© The Watch Lounge
Longio is one such company, offering timepieces with a high-end complications such as tourbillons at far more affordable prices than any European brand has ever been able (or willing) to offer. The piece we received for review is identified simply as Ref SG3824A and features a manual-wind movement with Flying Tourbillon complication with Moonphase and Date.
Overall, on first impressions we have to say this is a pretty nice looking timepiece. The case is very well made and has a nice, solid feel to it and similarly the rubber strap is of good quality and very comfortable (an area many cheaper brands often cut corners.) The watch sits well on the wrist and the crown feels firm and secure when winding the piece. A sapphire exhibition case back gives a rather disappointing view of the movement which hasn’t really been decorated at all and is mostly hidden.
© The Watch Lounge
Unfortunately the dial, however, is no where near as impressive as the case it is housed in. Described by the brand as a “black cut-out dial with black indices” it looks exactly that, a few pieces of plastic which have been cut into shape and then layered over the top of each other.
This is a major sticking point in my book as you spend most of your time looking at the dial and the poor finish really cheapens the overall feel of the watch, which isn’t necessarily a fair representation of the quality. Similarly, both the hour and minute hands and moon-phase complication lack the polished-finish you would get in a European made watch which again is quite disappointing. Add to that the completely ineffective pushers located at 2 and 4 o’clock for the date and moonphase respectively, which despite several futile attempts, I could not get to function in any noticeable way and you soon see there are a few areas for improvement on this particular piece.
© The Watch Lounge
Obviously though the key selling point of this piece is the flying tourbillon complication, and it is undeniably eye-catching (if not lacking somewhat in accuracy, rated at +30/-30 per day.) As it rotates through its 60-second arc you eye can’t help but be drawn to its graceful trajectory, time and time again, and in my opinion this really saves the piece. The tourbillon itself is well-made and well-finished and it is possible to observe it in action from both the front and rear of the case.
Certainly this is a brand that is capable of making a good quality timepiece, there just not quite there yet.
Regardless, brands like Longio still have a veritable up-hill battle on their hands when it comes to overcoming all the damage done to China’s reputation as a result of years of producing cheap, unreliable goods and the country’s supposed inability to be creative. Harder still will be the job of convincing their own countrymen, who are presently enamoured with European luxury brands, that their product is worthy of patronage.
© The Watch Lounge
The Final Word
Undeniably Chinese manufacturers have continued to improve and certainly produced some top quality “homage” pieces over the last few years, however, these were priced at a much lower point in the market. A point, which some would argue, consumers felt comfortable paying. This new breed of luxury brands though is looking to raise the bar again. The timepiece we have here for review today for example will run you closer to $3k – $4k as opposed to the few hundred you would’ve have paid for the homage pieces.
Still, there will be those out there who simply appreciate and admire the tourbillon complication even though they (like most of us) could never hope to own one from one of the high-end Swiss watch manufactures and so these new pieces from Chinese brands like Longio could really provide a realistic alternative. They are fairly well-priced for what they are although you will get zero brand recognition, which may be a good thing if you’re not too proud about wearing a Chinese made timepiece.
New Book: The Hands Of Time – Celebrating 25 Years Of The AHCI
With Basel World only a days away now, we are beginning to see more and more press releases for new products, but just as exciting we will also have some great books to read. We’ve already told you about the launch of the wonderful new book from Elizabeth Doerr “The Twelve Faces Of Time”, now it gives us great pleasure to introduce a new book from master watcher maker Peter Speake-Marin and celebrated writer and photographer Ian Skellern; “The Hands of Time”.
Away from the glitz and the glamour often associated with the world of horology are a group of artisans producing some of the most fantastic watches available today. These makers are at the cutting edge of the watchmaking world, often to be found head down at the bench working on their latest prototypes. Many of these individuals are members of the Académie Horlogère Des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI); which is celebrating 25 years this year. To commemorate this exceptional achievement the first ever AHCI book is now available, representing over two years of solid work from the book’s authors.
Conceived by master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin and written by ace horological photographer Ian Skellern it features 200 pages of the best independent horological instruments available today. The book is beautifully bound and the paper has a nice quality feel and a classy shiny UV coating, this helps the contrast and really makes the pictures stand out from the page.
Celebrating the launch of the new book in style. © Speake-Marin
Rather than going for a more common photo of a watch movement the cover is a very classy white with red accents and the AHCI logo. This can probably be put down to the egalitarian nature of the AHCI which continues inside the book. Each member has the same number of pages to explain their watchmaking vision and display their creations, and the members are listed in the order in which they joined the AHCI rather than say a more normal alphabetical listing.
While many of the names maybe unknown to you, you will recognize the likes of Peter Speake-Marin, Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) and F.P Journe who are becoming increasingly well-known in the mainstream marketplace. The book displays their products very well but it is the chance to see pieces from smaller makers like Andreas Strehler and Christian Klings that really appeals. The last entry in the book is the McGonigle brothers, two rising stars of the watch world. The text is especially interesting as I didn’t know Stephen also worked at Somlo Antiques in London, which is where Peter Speake-Marin also started, funny how things come around.
I can’t say that it is the sort of book that you would pick up and read cover-to-cover, but it is a great book for dipping into, and you are likely to learn something every time you read it. The only problem is that the pictures just make the credit card itch, oh to be a little bit richer!! Without a doubt this is a book you should have in your reference library.
The “Hands of Time” is available for purchase from the AHCI stand at Basel World from the 18th March until 25th March or from the dedicated website www.ahcibook.com for a very reasonable 60CHF.
Van Cleef & Arpels And Ladies Watches: The Love Story Continues
Four years on from the birth of the highly desirable Poetic Complications series, luxury jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has held a special event at their exquisite boutique in Place Vendôme, Paris to celebrate the release of three new evolutionary additions to this stunning range. We were fortunate enough to receive an invite to attend this exclusive event and we were not disappointed. To put it simply, the new pieces are absolutely breathtaking!
A Special Presentation
The spirit of these new pieces remains the same : Van Cleef & Arpels is intent on providing women with a new way to observe the passing of time. Timepieces created in a style which has been especially designed for her, and not just a simple variation of an existing model originally designed for men. Laurent Picciotto, founder of Chronopassion and ambassador of the collection, is here to make sure of that. His thoughts on the matter are quite clear, “For too long, Switzerland has been misogynous and macho”.
No arguments here.
In order to achieve this noble ambition, the brand has adopted a slightly different approach from traditional watchmakers. From the beginning, the focus is on design: one doesn’t start from a technical perspective, but instead from a creative idea. Then, they see if it’s realizable.
“Consequently, everything starts in the designer office”, underlines Louis de Meckenheim, Watch Marketing Manager, Van Cleef & Arpels. “The conception starts with jewellers and designers, and then we turn to to the movement makers, to see what is feasible, and what could become an issue”.
The brand offers poetic variations around time, realized through timepieces for which pure technics are pushed into the background. Love, magic, Paris, a starry sky, are just some of the variations of these Poetic Complications, allowing every woman the opportunity to comprehend time according to her own sense of style and sophistication.
And by all accounts the range of customers is quite diverse.
“It would be very difficult for us to define the average standard of our clients. Our youngest have less than 20 years !”, smiles the jeweller. “Even if we thought we were offering a single purchase experience to our clients, we see some of them coming year after year to discover what we had created for them as variations around the theme of time”.
Today, Van Cleef & Arpels offers about twenty references in its Poetic Complications range, each presented in limited quantities of around 100 units per year.
Nevertheless, do not allow yourself to be fooled by the stunning beauty of these pieces: whilst the sense of poetry created by each watch remains the focal point, the technical complexity of these pieces is equally as impressive.
A fact that is sure to appeal not only to the lucky owners but also their male counterparts, who often accompany their beloved when they are considering buying a sophisticated watch.
Thus, most of the models presented today, mainly built on an ETA base, include a fly-back complication. However, we are not talking about a flying-back swords here. Not at all! Swords don’t exist in the Poetic Complications world. Here we are talking about magic wands, butterflies, stars and fairy wings. At Van Cleef & Arpels, we don’t just look at the hour, we watch the passing of time. The two are not the same thing at all.
“We wanted to create watches that could go with our clients in their changing vision of time during their life”, analyses de Meckenheim. “Ladies don’t have the same link to time at 30 as they do at 60. Thus, our models are designed to offer different levels of time interpretation, in order to stay in perfect harmony with the life of our clients”.
Conceptually therefore each client will discover, as the years go by, a multitude of details designed by Van Cleef & Arpels : from the ruby that will appear only one time per year on a given day in May, to the slightest vibration of the butterflies when hitting the first second of each minute, through to the fleeting kiss of lovers, each watch contains its own hidden secrets waiting to be discovered along the years.
The Final Word
It’s hard not to be completely drawn in by Van Cleef & Arpels presentation of its Poetic Complications. It’s now a mature collection, remarkably made and combining the best qualities of the brand’s jeweller and watchmaker DNA. Each piece offers a unique poetic proposition, encompassing a subtle and rare elegance, with its own personality integrated at the same time into a consistent collection.
So stunningly exquisite that some would ask why women watches have not been designed like this before…
If you would like to keep up-to-date with everything happening at Van Cleef & Arpels make sure you become a fan on their Facebook Page and subscribe to their Twitter feed.
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