Posts Tagged ‘rolex’
What Does Swiss Made Actually Mean?
It is one of the most sought after and highly valued designations in the world of fine watches yet how many of us really know what it actually means? Does it mean the entire watch including case, movement, strap and so forth have all been lovingly constructed in Switzerland? Its a fair assumption to make, however, unfortunately the reality is quite different.
What Does It Mean To Be ‘Swiss Made’ Watch
According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH:
“Swiss made” embodies a concept of quality that has been forged over the years. It includes the technical quality of watches (accuracy, reliability, water-resistance and shock-resistance), as well as their aesthetic quality (elegance and originality of design).
Essentially it is deemed to be the ultimate stamp of approval for quality made, precision craftmanship thus making it highly desirable. But how hard is it really to get this accreditation? Under Swiss law, a watch can only be affixed with the label ‘Swiss Made’ if it satisfies the following criteria:
- its movement is Swiss and,
- its movement is cased up in Switzerland and;
- the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland.
At first reading these requirements seem quite robust but in reality they are not. Although it may not be considered common knowledge quite a few Swiss companies have been known to have watches assembled in China for export to North America, Asia and even Europe. Whilst powered by a Swiss Movement these watches may consist of a Chinese-made case and crystal, a Taiwan-made dial and metal bracelet and Japanese hands. As long as it is all put together in Switzerland then it will satisfy the requirements for ‘Swiss Made’ approval.
Its important to note though that the law does not so much define Swiss made as it pertains to wrist watches, but rather it sets a minimum standard of what is required for a watch to be considered Swiss made. Often the inherent ‘Swissness’ of a watch is largely dependent on the brand and its reputation.
The Industry’s Take
In a world of increasingly shrinking borders it is not surprising that each country is doing everything they can to protect their own unique skills and services. The Swiss watch industry is no exception with many notable brands joining forces with the FH to decry the perceived laxness of the requirements for the ‘swiss made’ accreditation.
In 2007 the FH sought political involvement on a new proposal which stipulated that any mechanical watch in which at least 80% of the production cost can be attributable to operations carried out in Switzerland would be considered as a mechanical Swiss watch. For other watches, particularly electronic watches, this rate would be 60%. Technical construction and prototype development would moreover need to be carried out in Switzerland. Raw materials, precious stones and the battery, however, would be excluded from the production cost. This proposal received a favourable reception from the Federal Authorities who have praised the industry’s determination to safeguard the reputation and credibility of the Swiss made label in the watchmaking sector.
Although steps are starting to be taken to increase the robustness of the accreditation no final agreement has yet been reached.
The Final Word
Arguably the ‘swiss made’ designation is as valuable if not more valuable than the brand name itself. However, it is important to note that the two work in conjunction together to bring their value offering to the end consumer. Although the above certainly suggests there is some room for further improvement and the value of the label may be more perceived than real, it cannot be denied that this still offers consumers a degree of certainty over the quality of manufacture. As previously mentioned though, the inherent ‘Swissness’ of a watch is often largely dependent on the brand and its reputation and so to ensure that you are getting the best quality product possible its up to you to do your research.
Reading this article was a great start!
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Fighting Fakes: Part Two
In part two of my two-part special on counterfeit watches it is my goal to equip you with some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators. Unfortunately the rapid progression in the design and manufacturing capabilities of the black market has meant that identifying a counterfeit watch has become far more difficult. However, there are some steps you can take as a consumer to protect yourself. Read on to learn more.
If you missed Part One you can read it here.
There’s fake and then there’s fake!
I think it’s fair to say that most people who buy a counterfeit watch do so with the knowledge that they are not purchasing the genuine article. However, what many consumers fail to realise is that there are two levels of counterfeit watch. The first is an extremely cheap imitation. The watch carries a luxury name but there’s no effort made to copy details of the real watch. Sellers assume a customer who pays $30 on a street corner must know it’s a fake and therefore must know that they’re not getting a “real bargain” on a $2000 watch.
A higher-quality fake is one designed to closely resemble the real product. It may incorporate real gold, diamonds and leather. It may have a case that bears a legitimate model number, but have other parts that are poor-quality substitutes. Such a watch will sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and an uneducated buyer could take it to be genuine. However, it is of inferior quality, made with questionable parts and workmanship. Tips to avoid this situation:
- Only purchase your watch from an authorized dealer or from a trusted source (if you are purchasing second-hand.)
- Do your research. There is abundant information available on the internet on nearly every make and model of luxury watch. Make sure you know what the watch should be made of, the different dial variations, etc. Very often counterfeit watches of luxury brands will bear the same name and branding but the design will be unlike any the watchmaker has ever released.
- Make sure the watch comes with a valid warranty. Even if you are buying online many re-sellers will offer 1 – 2 year warranties.
- If it’s too good to be true it probably is. If there is a highly limited edition watch going for an unbelievable price chances are it’s probably fake. Again though, do your research. There are genuine bargains to be found online and you don’t want to miss out.
Genuine Fakes
Another emerging trend is the practice of misleadingly representing inexpensive watches as if they were fine luxury timepieces. They are sold under their own brand name, so they are not fakes of another company’s brand. But their products are of modest to staggeringly cheap manufacture and have none of the merits of the fine, expensive brands they allude to. The typical scam on these are a combination of:
- An impressive Swiss, German or European sounding name.
- An impressive “retail price” or “RRP” (recommended retail price).
- Fancy verbiage that sounds like what a luxury watch brand would say.
- Impressive comparisons of features to those of “other” luxury timepieces.
- A special price you can buy it for that is incredibly below the retail price.
The deception here is that claimed retail price is a complete lie. These watches sell regularly at prices that are a trivial fraction–often as much as 70-95% off–of their claimed retail value. How can they sell them so cheap? Simple, they are cheap watches. Ones made to be profitably sold in the lower price range of their actual asking price. Any perception that these luxury impostors are even remotely worth their advertised retail price is nothing more than pure marketing bravado and intentional deception. So be aware of big discounts on seemingly ‘high-end’ brands that you’ve never actually heard of before.
The Final Word
The above is only a microcosm of the information that is available on the internet to help you protect yourself from counterfeiters. However, the onus is on you to do your research and be aware of the potential pitfalls of not buying from an authorized dealer. Having said that, as I mentioned before there are plenty of good bargains out there so arm yourself with as much information as possible and make the judgement call.
Does anyone else have any additional hints and tips or experiences with counterfeit watches that they would like to share with other readers?
Fighting Fakes: Two-Part Special
The global spread of counterfeit watches is an issue that plagues watchmakers, retailers, enthusiasts and everyday consumers alike. Given the sheer magnitude of fakes flooding the markets the best defence available to protect yourself is knowledge. In this two-part special I will explore in detail what constitutes a counterfeit, how its effecting the industry and what’s been done about it. In part two I will provide some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators.
What Are They?
Per Wikipedia, a counterfeit watch is an illegal copy of an authentic watch bearing the name of its brand and according to estimates by the Swiss Customs Service, there are some 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches put into circulation each year. The profitability of this black market industry is huge and seemingly endless, with one estimate putting the profit margin at $10 per dollar invested, about equal to profits of the illicit drug trade (and well below the profits of legitimate watch makers). This is truly a global business with numerous links to organised crime and a distribution network to die for!
Where Do They Come From?
So who’s making all these fakes? Swiss Customs estimates that 40% of counterfeit watches come from China, but counterfeits are produced elsewhere, even in the USA. You may remember the story from a few years ago now of authorities arresting a Florida woman for operating a counterfeit watch business. Her rented storage unit held almost 2,000 brand-name fake watches, with a total estimated retail value of $8.5 million. This is one of literally thousands of stories just like it and only serves to illustrate how wide-spread this issue has become.
The scary thing though is that in many countries possessing such a watch is not illegal. Even in Switzerland, where somewhat surprisingly, private persons are allowed to keep one counterfeit watch per person at the most, provided they import it personally into Switzerland. The maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer’s copyrights and trademarks, however, this rarely gives the latter much comfort.
What’s Been Done About It?
Why don’t the big brands do something about it I hear you ask? Well the fact is they do, however, with limited to no success. As with any facet of organised crime, tracing the problem back to the source is incredibly difficult, nigh impossible! Further to this, distribution of counterfeit watches is so widely spread now that it is simply pointless trying to address it without international co-operation between the appropriate authorities. This aspect is improving, however, it is a long way of being at the level required.
Another argument often put forth is that anyone who wants a $1,000 to $20,000+ watch and will settle for a $100 fake of it was not a serious buyer. They either would never have bought the real thing, or will toy with the fake and eventually return to their original desire and buy a real one after the brand-name image makes them feel good, but the fake itself disappoints. So while these products do infringe on the name brands, they don’t really hurt sales, therefore manufacturers do not have a financial incentive to aggressively pursue them. They tend to do enough that they can prove in any court cases that do arise that they have enforced their trademarks. But more than that is profitless to them.
There is some merit to this argument, however, consider this: globally, counterfeit watches are estimated to cost the Swiss watch industry more than $600 million per year. The claim that there is no harm done to sales is simply not true, as we all have seen or heard of countless examples where people will settle for a fake for any number of reasons, lack of education, taste, etc.
The Final Word
In my opinion, the big brands need to do more. No so much in pursuing the purveyors of these cheap imitations, but in educating and reminding consumers why they choose (have chosen) to buy a luxury watch in the first place. I’m fairly certain that no one here has bought a luxury watch solely because of the brand name or the way it looked. Consumers demand quality and they need to know they are going to get it. Watchmakers and retailers alike should be aware of this and act accordingly. Too often the significance of this is overlooked and can seriously impede the whole buying experience.
Make sure you tune in tomorrow for Part.2 on avoiding purchasing a fake watch.
Brand In Focus: Cartier
Cartier watches are synonymous with luxury and timeless elegance. Aided by its illustrious background as a jeweler of incomparable prestige, the House of Cartier has successfully introduced watches which have transcended their time of introduction to become truly legendary.
A Brief History (That’s Not Really Brief At All!)
The jeweler was originally founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the administration of the company, but it was his sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the famous world-wide brand name of Cartier.
Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company’s most celebrated design innovations, like the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches and exotic orientalist Art Deco designs, including the daringly colourful “Tutti Frutti” jewels. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current location at New Bond Street.
Pierre Cartier established the New York Branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant, son of railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant. The Cartier flagship mansion was purchased by the company from Morton Plant and his wife, in exchange for a pearl necklace, valued at the time at $1 million.
The Turning Point
After Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch for famed Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, Cartier timepieces rapidly became known and celebrated. Throughout the early years of the 20th century, designs such as the Tank, Tortue, and the Pasha were introduced, their appeal enduring to the present day, where they still remain as timeless as ever, and are continually enriched by new and sparkling variations.
The Final Word
Today, the house of Cartier continues to be a leading force in the world of high luxury. Aficionados of prestigious mechanical watchmaking can find much to admire with Cartier, whose elite Privee collection includes timepieces that feature such horological masterpieces as the tourbillon, the minute repeater, and the perpetual calendar. At the same time, Cartier remains dedicated to creating fresh and fashionable new designs which is evidenced in every new timepiece they create.
Truly a brand of distinct and distinguished tastes.
What Is A Helium Escape Valve And How Does It Work?
Recently someone commented on the site asking for an explanation of what a helium escape valve is and how it functions. Rather than write a brief comment in response I thought a more detailed explanation was in order for this essential feature of any serious dive watch.
Why Is It Necessary?
The purpose of a helium escape valve, or helium release valve as it is sometimes called, is to ensure that professional divers have access to a timepiece that can withstand the changes in pressurization inherent in diving.
Essentially when commercial divers operate at great depths, they often spend prolonged hours in diving bells under pressure breathing a gas mixture that contain the gas helium. As helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature, the gas is able to work its way inside the watch, around any o-rings or other seals the watch may feature.
Whilst the diver remains in this artificially pressurized environment the invasion of helium molecules into the watch is not an issue. However, when the diver begins their ascent to the surface there is a risk that a pressure difference will build up between the trapped helium inside the watch and the environment. This can lead to damage to the watch, such as the crystal popping off.
To overcome this issue Rolex and Doxa S.A. collaborated in the 1960s to co-create the first helium escape valve which was debuted in the Rolex Submariner/Sea-Dweller and the Doxa Conquistador. This small, one-way valve integrated into the watch’s external casing activates when the differential between the inner and outside pressure reaches a critical level to allow helium trapped inside the case to escape.
The Final Word
Due to the nature of a helium escape valve they are primarily found on mechanical diving watches that feature a water/pressure resistance greater than 300 m (1000 ft). Chances are that unless you are a serious professional diver you will never actually use this feature but it does make a cool talking point. It is also indicative of the extensive functional capabilities of the humble wristwatch.
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