Tag: submariner

My Watch: Victor Martinez, Dominican Republic

| May 15, 2010 | 9 Replies

Rolex Submariner

For our inaugural reader profile in the “My Watch” series, Victor Martinez from the Domingo Republic tell us about his favorite piece.

My name is Victor Martinez and I’m the Operations Manager for FedEx Express in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. I own a couple of time pieces such as Tag Heuer, Cartier, Rolex, and Panerai. The one I wear the most, however, is my Stainless Steel Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Z serial.

In my opinion this is kind of the perfect watch, I can wear it on any occasion and it will look great. Be it with a tuxedo, a suit or just in my bathing suit, it’s a mix of a sport watch and a dress watch…

It has a date window and a bezel where I can measure elapsed time…I chose the Sub date because is one of the most popular of the Rolex and it would never be out of fashion, now with the new submariner 2010 the 16610 will become a grail for lots of collectors.

For me this is one of the most perfect watches and it meets all of my needs, if I had to get rid of all my other watches and just keep one, this would be the one.

What Is A Helium Escape Valve And How Does It Work?

| September 11, 2009 | Reply

Helium Escape Valve

Recently someone commented on the site asking for an explanation of what a helium escape valve is and how it functions. Rather than write a brief comment in response I thought a more detailed explanation was in order for this essential feature of any serious dive watch.

Why Is It Necessary?
The purpose of a helium escape valve, or helium release valve as it is sometimes called, is to ensure that professional divers have access to a timepiece that can withstand the changes in pressurization inherent in diving.

Essentially when commercial divers operate at great depths, they often spend prolonged hours in diving bells under pressure breathing a gas mixture that contain the gas helium. As helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature, the gas is able to work its way inside the watch, around any o-rings or other seals the watch may feature.

Whilst the diver remains in this artificially pressurized environment the invasion of helium molecules into the watch is not an issue. However, when the diver begins their ascent to the surface there is a risk that a pressure difference will build up between the trapped helium inside the watch and the environment. This can lead to damage to the watch, such as the crystal popping off.

To overcome this issue Rolex and Doxa S.A. collaborated in the 1960s to co-create the first helium escape valve which was debuted in the Rolex Submariner/Sea-Dweller and the Doxa Conquistador. This small, one-way valve integrated into the watch’s external casing activates when the differential between the inner and outside pressure reaches a critical level to allow helium trapped inside the case to escape.

The Final Word
Due to the nature of a helium escape valve they are primarily found on mechanical diving watches that feature a water/pressure resistance greater than 300 m (1000 ft). Chances are that unless you are a serious professional diver you will never actually use this feature but it does make a cool talking point. It is also indicative of the extensive functional capabilities of the humble wristwatch.

What Is An Officially Certified Chronometre?

| September 8, 2009 | Reply

Glycine Lagunare

If you are a luxury watch enthusiast then you will no doubt be familiar with the term Officially Certified Chronometre. But what does it actually mean? And who’s giving this certification? Read on to learn more about one of the most well-respected certifications in the Swiss watch industry.

An Explanation of the COSC Chronometer Certification
The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or the COSC as its more commonly known is a not-for-profit organization that was founded in 1973. It is the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute and was established by five watch-making cantons (Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Solothurn and Vaud) as well as the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.

It encompasses the laboratories that had been established independently of each other from the late 19th century onwards and today is the only organization in the world that decides if a watch is a chronometer or not. The COSC differs in one important respect from all previous watch testing institutions and observatories. It is strictly non-competitive. There are no points awarded or any prizes. There are no degrees of success or honorable mentions.

The watches either pass or fail.

Defining A Chronometre
Before I go any further it may be helpful here to define what a chronometer actually is, as it is often mistaken with chronographs and chronoscopes. A chronometer is a high-precision watch capable of displaying seconds and housing a movement that has been tested over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body (the COSC).

Earning The Title
To earn chronometer certification, a movement must not only be made from the highest-quality components, but also the object of special care on the part of the finest watchmakers and timers during assembly. It is important to note here that that the fine regulation and chronometer characteristics of a watch can be destroyed in seconds by a rough and inexperienced hand.

Testing criteria is based on ISO 3159 which provides the definition of a wrist-chronometer with spring balance oscillator. Only movements which meet the precision criteria established under ISO 3159 are granted an official chronometer certificate.

Each uncased movement is individually tested for fifteen days, in five positions, at three different temperatures. The movements are fitted with a seconds hand and the automatic winding mechanisms are disengaged for the tests.

Measurements are made daily with the aid of cameras. Based on these measurements, seven eliminatory criteria are calculated, the minimal of which must all be met.

The Final Word
To give a bit of perspective on the value of COSC certification over 1 million official chronometer certificates are delivered each year, which represents only 3% of the Swiss watch production. This proportion truly underscores the exceptional nature of a chronometer and certainly makes it a key factor for consideration when purchasing your next luxury watch.

For more information check out the official COSC website:

Full Black: New Wyler Genève Code-R chronograph

| August 31, 2009 | 1 Reply

Wyler Genève Code-R chronograph

It seems that black is back and its here to stay. I for one could not be happier. Especially when you consider the number of high quality, stealth look watches that have been steadily introduced to the market over the last 12 months.

Wyler Genève Code-R chronograph
Take for example the new full-black Code-R chronograph from Wyler Genève. The brushed titanium case is subtle and refined yet the all black styling gives it a hint of toughness and reliability. And for a watch brand so closely linked with motorsport, reliability is key. That’s why the Code-R is powered by arguably one of the most reliable Swiss automatic chronograph movements presently on the market (at least within this price range) and has a power reserve of 42 hours.

Design Cues
Further demonstrating its strong links to motor racing the Code-R takes it design cues from the materials and technology used in the sport. As previously mentioned the external casing is made from lightweight yet incredibly resilient titanium with carbon-fibre resin for its inner frame. The rubber-coated crown is reticent of a car tyre and the chronograph pushers are pedal-shaped.

Function Over Form
However, just as in motor racing, design plays second fiddle to practicality in the Wyler Genève chronograph. A watch, no matter how stunning, has little use if it cannot be read and this problem is further magnified on an all-black timepiece such as the Code-R. To counter this, the hands and minute track numerals are coated with black SuperLuminova which ignite the dial at night to allow the user to view it clearly.

Ensuring comfortable wearing the Code-R is fitted as standard with a black rubber bracelet with pushbutton-operated fold-over clasp in steel and titanium and comes with a 2-year warranty.

The Final Word
Wyler Genève make stunning watches and the Code-R chronograph is no exception. The subtle stealthy allure of the watch cannot be denied and although I generally do not like titanium casing I would most certainly make an exception in this case (excuse the pun). This would make a great every day watch or a very nice addition to any collection.

Check out www.wylergeneve.com for more information.

Most Expensive: 1960′s Rolex Submariner Sells For Record Price

| August 25, 2009 | 4 Replies

Rolex

On Monday the 19th of January a vintage circa 1960s Rolex 5513 Submariner with movement calibre 1530 became one of the most valuable items ever sold in a Wrist & Pocket Watch auction at Birmingham auctioneers, Fellows & Sons.

The original sale estimate of £900 – £1,400 ($1,950 – $3,200) dramatically undervalued the classic, highly collectible watch’s true appeal at auction attested to by the level of attention the piece received, attracting bidders from around the world including New York, Japan, Australia, Hong Kong and United Arab Emirates. However, even seasoned collectors may be a little surprised to hear that the watch passed in at a staggering 2200% above expectations for the tidy sum of £35,000 ($76,000)!

Details of the new owner were not disclosed, but it would be safe to assume that they are very happy with their latest acquisition. Launched in 1962 and produced through to June 1990 the Rolex Submariner 5513 model is one of the longest continually produced references in Rolex history. The 1500 series of movements are thought to be one of the best ever created by the luxury brand. “Not to mention saving 007 and Solitaire from certain death in the Bond film ‘Live and Let Die’, it is no wonder that the 5513 model is considered one of the most collectable Submariners” commented Stephen Whittaker, the Managing Partner at Fellows & Sons. “Our telephone lines were fully booked and we had several internet bidders who were very keen to get their hands on this watch – creating a really exciting atmosphere in the auction room.”

Fellow & Sons hold regular auctions throughout the year so keep your eyes out for future announcements. If you would like further information please contact Mary Long on 0121 212 5500 or email: mary@fellows.co.uk