Posts Tagged ‘Tourbillon’
Weird Watch Wednesday: Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
In a highly competitive market, such as the luxury watch industry, participants need to evolve constantly, trying new things and finding new ways to get the upper hand on their competitors. Sometimes these new concepts are beautifully executed and work out well and sometimes they just fail dismally. Fortunately for high-end luxury watchmaker Chopard their latest creation, to be presented at Basel World later this month, sits firmly in the first category.
A Podium Finish
Exquisitely different from anything the brand has attempted before, this new piece only serves to reaffirm Chopard’s impressive capabilities as a watchmaker. True to the brand’s motor racing themed heritage, the shape and design of new Engine One Tourbillon is reticent of an engine block. In fact, almost everything about this new piece has been inspired by motor racing in some way or another.
The manually wound L.U.C 1TRM tourbillon calibre is COSC-certified and has been made completely in-house by Chopard and specially shaped to fit within the unique case. It is equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and is mounted within the case on shock-absorbing blocks much like a race car engine. Three lever-arms inserted into the middle of the case hold it in place and ensure absolute stability.
As the name suggests the piece features a tourbillon complication, which is exposed on the stunningly simplistic dial, sitting just below the power reserve indicator. The tourbillon cage completes one revolution every 60 seconds and the bridge has been beautifully skeletonized, maximizing the visual appeal of this highly desirable novelty.
Subtle Yet Distinctive
The distinctive case is crafted from titanium and measures 35.4mm in width by 44.4mm in length. Showcasing a striking combination of polished and brushed surfaces, the sides of the piece reveal contrasting brushed flanks and strongly curved lugs, creating a case that is both aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortably fitting. Adding to that comfort is a hand-sewn black alligator strap with a titanium buckle, a welcome change from the rubber straps many luxury brands have been favoring on their high-end sports pieces.
A quick look at the dial and you could be forgiven for thinking you had just opened the bonnet of an expensive sports car. The satin central section and vertically striated outer sections work together to create the impression of engine rocker covers and provide a very unique look without cluttering or over-complicating the dial. The power reserve indicator sits on a slightly elevated area at 12 o’clock, looking every bit the gas-gauge it has been designed to emulate.
As a an added touch the hour markers and indices are located directly on the shaped sapphire crystal, as opposed to the dial which is the more common practice, and this in turn creates an appealing three-dimensional effect while at the same improving the overall legibility of the exceptionally refined dial.
As the brand is celebrating its 150th birthday this year, the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon will be offered in a limited production of just 150 pieces and the price is expected to be in excess of $100,000.
The Final Word
There are many things to love about this new piece from Chopard. Its original design, the fact the movement is made completely in-house, the adherence to the brand’s racing heritage, the list goes on. But what truly impresses us, however, is the fact that the brand has been willing to try something bold and different and has really pulled it off.
This watch doesn’t need to use cheap tricks and bright colors to stand out, it is its simplicity that makes it truly distinctive.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, New This Week, Weird Watch Wednesday
The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture
When considering the relationship between luxury and value, points of view tend to disagree. This is because these two concepts are somewhat contradictory. In light of Tom Mulraney’s article about the real value of tourbillon watches, I find it suiting to take a closer look at a watch that claims to offer both luxury and value. It will also be very interesting to hear the insightful opinion of The Watch Lounge readers in regards to this watch, which is the Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture.
Alpina is very dedicated to providing the best possible value for the high quality and appeal of luxury products. Because of this, I believe that this underestimated, modern company still has a lot of growth ahead of it. Tourbillon timepieces, while very visible in the watch media, are still quite rare in terms of units produced. Most models presented by companies other then the established giants, are often limited to tiny lots.
In the case of the Extreme Tourbillon, for instance, only 18 of each variation will be produced. The precision required to manufacture the numerous components of the tourbillon cage is the source of both the rarity and prestige associated with this complication. A closer look at Alpina’s AL-980 calibre Tourbillon movement will put these components in evidence.
The AL-980 calibre is comprised of 188 parts. Its purpose is to offer accuracy, impressive Swiss manufacturing, and – of course – the complex tourbillon mechanism at a price lower then the competition’s. This proprietary mechanism is an extensively modified version of Alpina’s original manufacture calibre, the AL 950. It retains the AL-950’s automatic winding mechanics and the regulator hour configuration.
One of the main aspects of the new AL-980, is that is equipped with a silicium escapement wheel and lever. The advantages of this material are now well known by many watch enthusiasts. Its light weight creates less friction than traditional substances and allows for a more precise measurement of time. The viscosity of the escapement also allows it to run properly without lubrication, virtually eliminating the need for regular servicing. The tourbillon cage itself is made of 80 parts showing how intricate even a basic version of this complication can be.
The tourbillon is an impressive complication. It is easy to see why watches that are equipped with it, often exhibit it through the dial. This is so on the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator, who’s dial is “skeletonized” to showcase the mesmerizing combination of rotation and oscillation. The dial’s low contrast further highlights the individually numbered “tourb.” The markings on the multilevel dial are black and the applied steel hour markers and hands are darkened with the PVD process. The 48mm case is sporty and modern. It offers a relatively low profile and curved lugs, which are joined to a soft rubber strap for a comfortable fit. The black bezel is made of ceramic while the black case is made of titanium and coated with diamond like carbon (DLC). All Extreme Tourbillon regulators offer a peek at the ingenious movement via see-through, exhibition backs.
The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator represents a new category of tourbillon watches. These timepieces offer all the quality and precision expected of Swiss manufacturing with a price that reflects their actual value without the Tourbillon Club surcharge. The Extreme Tourbillon offers the simplest and most robust form of the “whirlwind” mechanism and packages it in a modern, sporty case.
Only 18 copies of each of the two versions will be manufactured reflecting the naturally limiting precision and time required to build them. With a price tag that hovers around the $50,000 mark, the AL-980BC5AE9 and AL-980BCT5AE9 Extreme Tourbillon Regulators represent the rare balance between luxury and value.
Have Alpina got it right? Tell us what you think below!
Marco is a specialist of Alpina watches at Matt Baily.
What’s A Tourbillon Really Worth?
Bell & Ross BR01 Tourbillon
Later this week we will be presenting our “on-the-wrist” review of this watch from Chinese manufacturer, Longio. Whilst not yet on the mainstream radar this Hong Kong based brand is really making a concerted effort to break into the luxury watch market by offering watches that have been constructed fully in-house, including the automatic movement which features a tourbillon complication.
This got us thinking: what is the real value of a tourbillon and its associated variations? Will the introduction of these Chinese made alternatives impact negatively on this value or has the damage already been done through the excessive use of this not so rare complication by over-exuberant European brands attempting to establish their watch making credentials?
Undeniably the tourbillon has to be one of the most commonly used complications in watch-making today, though that’s not to say that its still not an impressive piece of engineering. Notwithstanding that fact, at its heart its purpose is purely aesthetic and offers no tangible benefit to the wearer other than something attractive to look at on the watch dial.
Breguet – the original tourbillon master
It should be acknowledged here though, that there are those who take the art of the Tourbillon to another level. Brands such as Breguet or individuals like Thomas Prescher are names that immediately spring to mind. Thomas’ mind-blowing creations including the Triple-Axis Flying Tourbillon and the Mysterious Automatic Double-Axis Tourbillon provide exemplary illustrations of what a true master is capable of achieving with the tourbillon complication.
However, it seems that for most brands the humble tourbillon is the complication most often called upon to help them make the step from mainstream watch maker into the world of haute horologerie. Arguably this is because of the known complications available (and trust us, there are many more yet to be invented, just look at Ludovic Ballouard’s gloriously original Upside Down watch) the tourbillon is one of the easiest to make relative to the level of impact it has on the wearer. For example, a perpetual calendar, whilst far more useful simply does not have the same visual appeal as a flying tourbillon complication, although many would say that the latter is a redundant technology.
Chinese-made Longio Telamon Diving Watch with Classic Tourbillon complication
So this takes us back to our original question, what is the real value of a tourbillon complication?
In our opinion, the tourbillon is so widely used now that the introduction of Chinese brands which feature this complication (and there are many more than just Longio) will only have a marginal impact on the overall value of the tourbillon. Certainly it will make this attractive complication far more accessible to mainstream consumers but it seems to us that the European brands are doing more than enough to diminish the value of this centuries-old masterpiece of engineering that the impact will simply not be that noticeable.
Which brings us to our next question: is the inclusion of this somewhat common complication enough for a Chinese brand to break into the luxury market?
Again, in our humble opinions we think not. Yes, the fact that Chinese manufacturers have been able to create a tourbillon movement of their own (albeit a not too accurate one at +/- 30 seconds a day) should send up red flags over in Switzerland, but is it really enough to make these brands stand-out? Where is the creativity? European manufacturers have been incorporating tourbillon complications into their high-end timepieces for several decades, in our opinion if Chinese manufacturers really want to have a fighting chance at the upper-end of the market they really need to do something dramatically different!
The Santos 100 by Cartier with tourbillon complication
Of course we could be completely wrong. That’s where you come in, please leave your thoughts in the comments section below, whether you agree with us or not. It would be really great getting some discussion going on this topic as we are very curious to hear what you think!
Ateliers deMonaco Officially Announces In-House Minute Repeater
High-end new comer Ateliers deMonaco yesterday officially announced the introduction of their very first, fully in-house developed and manufactured Minute Repeater: the Carré d’’Or Squelette Grand Tourbillon Répétition Minute TB-RM1. An exceptionally attractive and complicated piece, this latest invention grants Ateliers deMonaco entrance to a very exclusive club, made up of just a few select watch makers around the world, that have the ability to design and manufacture such a complication in-house.
This bold move reinforces the brand’s commitment to quality and high-end innovation and further raises the standard for excellence they set themselves when they first launched in 2008.
A Work Of Art
Although the first, completed watch was actually “unofficially” on show at the Geneva Time Exhibition, the official launch has been delayed till Basel World as a result of the time required to make each masterpiece.
And its not hard to see why.
All you need to do look at this new piece from the Monaco based manufacturer and it is immediately evident the attention to detail and level of craftsmanship required to create a timepiece of this standard. It is truly a work of art.
The square shaped case is fast becoming Ateliers deMonaco trademark and this particular model has received some extra special attention with the beautiful hand cut open dial affording the wearer an obstructed view of the superb in-house movement and patented XP 1 minute tourbillon.
Broken into seven main parts the case features curve shaped 18k gold side panels and an ultra light titanium core. The activation mechanism for the minute repeater is also made of titanium and integrated into the side panel at the 9 o’clock position. Ensuring the stunning mechanism can be appreciated from as many angles as possible the sapphire crystals on both the front and back have received multi-layered anti reflection coating.
In total there are 55 parts that make up the exquisite case, each of which has brushed, polished and assembled by hand. At 46 x 50 MM it’s certainly not a small watch but then again, why would you want to hide away something as spectacular as this?
The ornately hand-engraved movement © Ateliers deMonaco
Stunning Inside And Out
Unlike some other brands that spend all their time on decorating the case and leave the movement relatively untouched and hidden away behind the dial, Ateliers deMonaco ensures that their Caliber receives equal attention from the artisans (as you can see in the above image).
Showcasing another one of the brand’s signature trademarks the TB-RM1 movement is hand engraved on the front and back and features a sunbeam pattern carved into the main plate of the movement (which, by the way is made of Ruthenium or as its more commonly known, black gold).
The movement is manually wound and offers a respectable 48 hour power reserve. Other highlights include a custom made, hand engraved tourbillon cage with a sapphire bridge for the tourbillon, silicium escape wheel and silicium lever. The speed of the tourbillion is regulated by 18k gold weights and thanks to the beautifully complex Minute Repeater complication the chiming hours, quarters and minutes are available on command.
The watch is presented on a hand-stitched, alligator leather strap with an adjustable 18k gold folding buckle. Offered in a highly limited edition of just 8 pieces worldwide, the Carré d’’Or Squelette will come in a special box that has been designed as a resonance instrument, allowing for the amplification of the Minute Repeater’s chimes.
Set to be revealed to public at Basel World 2010, expect the price to be well over US$100,000.
A close up view of the hand engraved tourbillon with sapphire bridge © Ateliers deMonaco
The Final Word
Although Ateliers deMonaco is a relative new-comer to the high-end luxury watch industry it is clear that the brand is committed to making extraordinary pieces that stand apart from their competitors. Rather than looking for cheaper alternatives, as many brands have been forced to do in these turbulent time, they are investing the capital required to create a truly first class manufacturer.
Expect to see many more spectacular pieces from this ambitious brand in the years to come.
Interview With Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher
*Please note that thanks to the excellent work of Olivier Muller this interview is also available in French
A few weeks ago we told you about the amazing Qatar watch from Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher. Held in the highest international regard for his exceptional skills, Mr Prescher has created some of the most awe defying timepieces ever seen, including the Triple-Axis Tourbillon. Renowned for his creativity and determination, Mr Prescher recently took a break from his busy schedule to talk to us about his career as a watch maker, the challenges he’s faced and essentially what drives him to do what he does.
Not be missed, please enjoy our interview with Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher.
TWL: Have you always been passionate about watches and watchmaking? Where do you think this passion comes from?
TP: When I was twelve an aunt of mine presented me with some crystals. They became my hobby. I decided to become a goldsmith to work more with crystals. While I was still in school I did some work experience in a Jeweller shop and this is where I came into contact with watches for the first time. It became my new passion. Two years later I decided to start my career as a naval officer. I quit the navy after six years to realize my true dream and about a year later begun my apprenticeship as a watchmaker.
TWL: When you were first starting out did you ever think “Yes, I can become a Master Watchmaker and create some of the most complicated movements the world has ever seen?” Did you ever think that you would not succeed in achieving this goal?
TP: The first time was during my apprenticeship when my master asked me behind closed doors if I have done private work without asking his permission beforehand. I swore that I had not and asked why. He said that he found a complicated lever of an old chronograph in the cleaning machine. I wanted to know why this guided him to me. He said “you are the only one who has the skills to make this by hand, all the others would have asked me if they had found this”. Well it came out that it was somebody from another department but it told me that he saw something special in my work.
The second time I knew I could achieve great things was when I was able to finish my four year apprenticeship in three years. I was the first ever to be granted this special permission in IWC and I also managed to submit the best exam in Switzerland that year.
Last but not least, I was given permission to make my first Tourbillon as part of my apprenticeship, an almost unheard of challenge for an apprentice watchmaker!
Thomas Prescher Calendar QP1
TWL: What other watchmakers do you admire and why? Is there anyone in particular who stands out in your mind as having made a significant contribution to your knowledge and success?
TP: I would prefer to describe more what I admire as opposed to whom, and so in this way it will be impossible for me to miss anyone’s name out!
I admire strength and discipline in following ideas and visions to fruition, as well as the patience to realize things, even if that takes a long time. I also admire the strength and determination required not to give up, even if the target is not realistic.
I must make special mention though of several people who had a particular influence on my professional career. The person who made the most significant contribution to my handcrafting skills was my master, who taught me to continually search for improvement. I would also like to acknowledge Richard Habring, who not only convinced my master to grant me the opportunity to attempt the construction of a tourbillon but also gave me basic plans for the movement. And for sure Richard Daners who answered all my questions when I got the chance to make my first handmade watch as an employee.
In large part the knowledge I have now I got from many old books, networking and also most importantly from trial and error. I have also learnt an incredible amount from the restoration work I have done on the watches of old masters, who taught me through their watches what could work and what was better not to do.
TWL: What inspired you to create the first ever double axis tourbillon pocket watch and a double axis tourbillon wristwatch?
TP: I saw the picture of Randal and Goods multi axis Tourbillons in a table clock in a Tourbillon book and I thought to myself how nice but senseless this is to equilibrate different position in a clock which does not change positions. This must be done in a portable watch.
I started with a pocket watch but upon presentation to the public I learnt that the world was not waiting for pocket watches. I created the Triple Axis Tourbillon wrist watch for the next year, because the same people who originally said that the double was impossible were now asking for a third axis, again with the intention that this should be impossible for me to achieve.
Triple Axis Tourbillon Regulator Sport – The tourbillon with three axis – first and second axis turn once per minute, third axis turns once per hour
TWL: After the stunning success of those two remarkable pieces in 2003, you followed them up with the Tourbillon Trilogy at Baselworld 2004, where you unveiled the first ever triple axis tourbillon wristwatch. Did you ever think that you would not be able to achieve this remarkable feat?
TP: I knew it was possible but several times during the process I was ready to go throw it in Lake Biel. However, I refused to give up and instead continued to squeeze the piece, so to speak, and force it to give up its resistance. Finally I won the battle with the Triple. Making it is still like riding a full blood Arab Horse. Very difficult but it brings fun and satisfaction.
TWL: What were the greatest challenges you faced when conceiving and realising these pieces? How did you overcome them?
TP: To create the watch as an entire piece of art. From a technical perspective the greatest challenge was to realize that a constant force in the carriage is more or less a must for a system like mine. It was also very difficult to synchronize the arm of the Tourbillon with the minute hand. That took me nearly the half of the time.
Overall though, the most difficult thing was the realization of a prototype financed 100% out of my own pocket. No bank was willing to help. So I did nearly everything with my turning machine and through this process gained a lot of knowledge.
In my opinion the only way to overcome the problems of an independent start up is strong will, hard work and patience.
TWL: Looking back now, would you have done anything differently? Why?
TP: I have only one life and I am where I am because I have done things the way I have. So following this logic I would do everything the same, because I am happy now!
If I had a second life I think I would do many things different to make it easier for others and also for myself, although if this would result in the outcome I intended, I am not sure at all.
Mesmerizing – the inner workings of the Qatar watch.
TWL: Recently you announced the successful completion of the custom made Qatar watch, from your TempusVivendi range. What was the most enjoyable aspect of designing and creating this timepiece? What did you find most difficult?
TP: I am very pleased by the positive comments this watch has received. For me the most enjoyable but at the same time challenging aspect was the coat of arms. At first glance it seemed like they were almost made for my system, but this was to be misleading. I had to change so many things especially as the swords had to be carried from the external side and not from the centre. It took me a month to develop this new system and another again to make the new parts.
A very nice aspect is that I always have the opportunity to come in close contact with a new field of things when I do the research for a watch like this. I discovered a new and extremely interesting country and culture.
In the end the most difficult thing was to make the design balanced so that it shows perfect harmony in both positions; showing the time and swords up.
TWL: How long does it take you to design and manufacture a custom piece from start to finish?
TP: Depending what the client wants between four weeks and two years. The Qatarwatch took me three months.
TWL: What is the most unusual request a client has ever made from you for a custom piece?
TP: Can you make me this mechanism for a Quartz watch!
TWL: Finally, out of all the timepieces you have ever made, which is your favorite and why?
TP: My new Mysterious Automatic Double Axis Tourbillon with calendar on the oscillating weight. When I first had the idea I thought this is now beyond even my limits. So I started to realize each part of this watch as a single part and then I have put all the parts together to form one extraordinary watch!
Make sure you keep your eyes out for this amazing new piece from Thomas Prescher later this week!
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