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This Oktopus also got it right – A My Watch Special By Miguel Seabra
One of the biggest stars of the recently concluded World Cup was ‘Paul, the Octopus’ – a prophetic cephalopod that predicted correctly the outcome of every single one of the eight matches he was asked to. Well, I’ve got my own Oktopus and it also gets it right… in many different ways.
When Tom Mulraney and I were discussing all the hoopla regarding Rafael Nadal’s $525,000 Richard Mille tourbillon a couple of months ago, he asked me to write a feature about a watch of mine for The Watch Lounge. Back then I was swamped with work, not only writing for my Espiral do Tempo watch magazine but also doing a lot of tennis commentary for Eurosport, so I had to decline. But recently I had a few days off after Wimbledon and thought about the challenge – I’ve always enjoyed talking about my watches and used to have a column in the magazine with that kind of personal/emotional insight, so I decided to give it a go.
Initially I thought of writing about one of the best, affordable sleepers in the watch industry that always gets praise whenever I use it on my wrist: the Klassik Chronograph, an atypical watch within the Chronoswiss collection that sadly just went out of production. But then World Cup fever made me decide to go from the most classical to the most contemporary timepiece in my collection and pick my diver’s watch from Linde Werdelin instead for the article.
Why?
A great diver’s watch with titanium case, helium escape valve and water resistant to 1111m.
I had a couple of friends over at my house and we were discussing who would be the favourite team to win the final; of course, Pulpo Paul’s predictions came into the conversation and I said: «Well, I also have a psychic Oktopus, this watch I’m wearing right now – and it says Spain is going to win, because from all the five international ladies working at the Linde Werdelin headquarters, this one was handed out to me by Eva Mureddu, who’s Spanish». And it turned out my Oktopus was right – Spain actually won (though I have to underline they beat us in the last 16 with an offside goal that was the only one Portugal suffered in the competition!).
I picked up my Oktopus during my stay in London for this year’s Wimbledon championships. I’m always happy whenever I can mix my two passions that are also my two jobs (writing about tennis and watches); I had already visited the Linde Werdelin premises in the past, located in the Notting Hill area and also invited Jorn Werdelin to watch some tennis at the O2 Arena, where the year-end ATP World Tour Championship is played, and at Wimbledon’s famous Centre Court.
I have to say that I was divided until the very last second (and had doubts even after the decision!) between the grade-5 Titanium version and the blackened DLC version, but from the beginning it was pretty much clear that the Oktopus would be the model I’d want from a brand that got my attention right from the beginning.
For those of you not familiar with the two different models, Morten Linde has created an excellent video where he discusses the two. Check it out below and then keep reading:
So why the Oktopus? Well, for emotional and rational reasons. Emotionally, I think I’ve always been attracted to Nordic design – and even though I’m a purist that loves vintage timepieces (especially those from the 60’s and car racing inspired chronographs from the early 70’s), my taste is versatile enough to also embrace a great modern design like Linde Werdelin’s: it was a ‘coup de coeur’ right from the beginning, when I saw the first pictures. Rationally, I find the Linde Werdelin concept quite ideal – a stylish designer watch powered by a traditional mechanical calibre combined with an electronic instrument able to provide all sorts of downloadable data.
There were also a couple of prior references that might have prepared me for Linde Werdelin: I remember going to Baselworld more than a decade ago and looking for another Nordic brand, albeit Swedish (Linde Werdelin has Danish roots), called Sjöo Sändstrom, that also combined a mechanical and a quartz calibre (a bit like TAG Heuer’s Monaco Sixty Nine, a few years later); I also remember vividly a discussion I had with Franck Müller a long time ago where he told me that the future of watchmaking would lie in a combination of a mechanical watch and a quartz-powered device that would provide all the extra information required in these rapidly evolving times.
So, there you go: I was somehow unconsciously prepared to pay a lot of attention to Linde Werdelin. I’m quite demanding, but everything I saw was convincing and, as a member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève jury, I even put Linde Werdelin’s Trigon & Land Instrument combo on top of my top 10 list in the ‘Sports Category’ because I found it to be the most innovative entry. Turns out my colleagues from the jury thought otherwise, but by then I knew sooner or later I’d make the decision to have one for myself.
The Linde Werdelin original analogue-digital combo of watch + instrument.
After the sturdier Oktopus model was introduced in 2009, I knew it was the one I’d be expecting when I had the chance to see it closely at the Baselworld fair: it is slightly bigger than the previous models, I find the bezel a bit more attractive and it’s the first Linde Werdelin line with numerals instead of only indexes on the dial. Yes, it’s also watertight to 1111m with a helium valve, but I mainly wanted a sports watch with a contemporary design, rather than a diver’s watch…
So, after the decision was made I had to choose which model from the Oktopus range. I love the Moonphase introduced this year, but it’s a specialty version and out of my budget; I also find the Tattoo quite interesting and think it can be the starting point for a series of limited editions dedicated to contemporary icons. But I knew my choice would be between the Titanium and the DLC versions… and, because I’m thinking of getting one of Project X Designs DLC blackened customizations, I ended up picking the Oktopus Titanium – with a dark gray case that offers a nice contrast with the lacquered black bezel.
DLC and Titanium versions: undecided until the very last moment.
Now, which strap? I’m really demanding (almost maniac!) in what concerns strap selection and Linde Werdelin offers a great variety of sumptuous straps/bracelets; probably for the Oktopus Titanium the right choice is the rubberized calf strap, but since I already have a black-dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore with black rubberized calf, I opted for the black textile strap – but planning on getting a pointed calf strap and a tracked calf strap later on so that I can adequate the look of my Oktopus to more urban circumstances.
The strap attachment system invented by Linde Werdelin is quite interesting and a fundamental part of the modernity of the design. Eva Mureddu just took a couple of minutes to change the straps and I could finally get the timepiece on my wrist.
So, as you can see, my Oktopus got it right in so many ways – from the outcome of the World Cup final, to the design and architecture of the case, to the sophisticated details. It even predicts what time it’ll be in exactly 5 minutes. And if they gave the name ‘Paul’ to that now legendary octopus, I think I might as well do some baptizing around here: from now on, this beauty on my wrist is going to be ‘Otto, the Oktopus’.
*Miguel Seabra hails from Portugal and has been covering tennis for 20 years and watches for 15. Check out Miguel’s profile on his Twitter page: «Tennis & Mechanical Timepieces – editor of Jornal do Ténis and Espiral do Tempo, Eurosport commentator and watch specialist. It is great to have both passions for a job!»
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Wow Watch Wednesday: Devon Tread 1
Depending on who you read, you may have heard something (or nothing) about a rather remarkable new concept watch, the Devon Tread 1. Although, given the overwhelming media attention the Tread 1 received when it was first announced earlier this year one could almost suggest that it would be impossible for internet savvy enthusiasts not to be at least familiar with the name, if not the extraordinary idea behind it.
So, why have we waited so long to write about the Tread 1?
It’s simple really, we weren’t quite sure where it fit and to be honest, we’re still not.
It’s Definitely Different
At first glance the Tread 1 looks like a rather impressive piece of modern age haute horology, not unlike something that might be produced by the famous Atelier of Christophe Claret.
At first glance.
And herein our conundrum lay. You see, the Tread 1 is not a high-end piece of haute horology, at least not in the traditional sense. Certainly it is complicated and boasts an array of tiny, finely machined moving parts that work in unison to animate this most unique timepiece, but that is very much where the similarities end (at least at a mechanical level.)
Unlike other mechanical timepieces which also use the increasingly popular conveyor belt concept to present the time and other functions to the wearer, the Tread 1 is powered by a lithium polymer rechargeable cell that Devon claims will run for up to two weeks on a single charge. This rechargeable cell powers four incredibly compact micro-step motors which drive the movements of the four individual, overlapping belts visible on the Spartan-esque dial.
It is undeniably a bold concept and completely unlike anything we’ve seen before, yet like many of our on-line colleagues we also find ourselves asking the question; is this a luxury timepiece or simply a very expensive gadget? And more importantly, does it really matter?
Certainly the Tread 1 won’t suit all tastes, and dare we say that the more traditional among us may even consider this an affront to the fine art of mechanical watch-making, yet we do not believe that this is the spirit in which this curious timepiece was conceived. To us this piece speaks of artistic creativity and a strong desire to challenge commonly accepted conventions.
We have talked before about the difference the place of inception can make on the design and ideology behind a timepiece, and so it will come as no surprise to many of you that the Tread 1 was actually designed in California not Europe. Whilst it undoubtedly shows in the design, it is also reflected in the state-of-the-art technology encapsulated within.
For example the pulley system is lubricant free and moves smoothly thanks to the integration of jeweled bearings. A temperature-compensated crystal provides data to the on-board microprocessor that drives the four micro-step motors while the exterior case is formulated from high-grade stainless steel complete with crystal viewing panel made of scratch-resistant and anti-reflective polycarbonate with bulletproof durability.
Sounds impressive doesn’t it but is it enough?
The Final Word
For all its advanced technology and new-age looks, we’re still not sure about the Tread 1. Conceptually it is very cool, but does it really satisfy what we crave in a timepiece, especially one with a reasonable price tag attached? The Tread 1 retails for $15,000, which in context, is not unreasonable given the technology offered, however, at the same time the brand has no history or credibility as a watch-maker and in many regards is more an expensive toy than a luxury timepiece.
Of course, we could be completely off the mark here, and so if you think we are please don’t hesitate to tell us!
To find out more about the Devon Tread 1 check out their official website: www.devonworks.com
H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar – Simplistic Sophistication
I am sure that it will come to the surprise of nobody that there are a lot of watch shops in Geneva. The rise of the “Brand” has led to the opening of numerous single-brand dedicated boutiques by all of the major manufacturers and has also allowed larger independents to have a dedicated space; an organized trip to the F.P. Journe shop anyone?
For those interested in the smaller independent watch-makers, however, who don’t quite have the budget to match their larger counterparts, there is only one multi-brand store, l’Heure Asch.
On the “Grand Rue” of Geneva’s old town and about a third the way up the steep cobbled street, can be found the very smart, if slightly scary, shop of Denis Asch filled with the items he is passionate about. I have walked past the shop on many occasions, but never had the opportunity to actually spend some time; probably best known for being the only Gruebel Forsey reseller in Geneva, l’Heure Asch does have a range of products which are a lot more affordable for a lot more people.
For my visit in early July Denis Asch and his team had a special expo from H. Moser & Cie, the small and slightly exclusive manufacturer from Shaffhausen in northern Switzerland. The designs are decidedly classical, no skeleton dials and tourbillions here; what we have are beautifully made watches at very reasonable prices. Specifically the Perpetual Calendar that first caught his eye back in 2005.
At first glance the dial appears to be very straight-forward and largely this is true and is the reason why it scores highly for readability. But with a second look you notice a third hand on the centre column, this indicates the month using the baton markers around the edge. Opposite the Power Reserve, rated at “at least 7 days” there is a date window, large and clear and a single disc rather than the dual disc common in large window dates today.
Unusually for a Perpetual Calendar, the date and time can be set both forward and backwards without damage thanks to a patented “Double Pull Crown” patented mechanism. While the leap year is set by a button on the side of the case at 9 o’clock and indicated on the movement visible through the Sapphire case back. The sapphire has the nice but regrettably uncommon attribute of being convex, this allows the watch to sit much more closely and securely than a “flat back” especially for those with a smaller wrist.
The cases are available in a range of Gold options and Platinum for the slightly flash and an assortment of dials, black probably being my favorite. Prices are competitive starting at around 12,000CHF for an uncomplicated watch and going up from there.
Considering the build quality this seems reasonable, but it caters to the more reserved client, this is not something likely to be purchased by the Richard Mille fan. In these financially challenging times in which “flash” bankers are trying to keep a low profile, this would be just the sort of thing.
The Final Word
Clean lines, excellent quality and simple practicality are the hallmarks of the exceptional timepieces from H. Moser & Cie. If you were to choose to invest in one of their timepieces, such as the perpetual calendar, you can be sure that you will buying a timepiece that will not only look great but will also be impeccably serve the purposes for which it was designed.
One word of caution though; this “middle” part of the market is becoming more and more competitive, a lot of good makers are making great watches, the discerning purchaser has never had so much choice and differentiating product offerings is ever more challenging. If you are in this market at this price point it may take some time for you to make your mind up, but at least you will have tried a lot of different watches along the way and in the end gotten yourself a great watch.
To find out more information about H. Moser & Cie including stockists check out their official website: www.h-moser.com
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