Archive for the ‘Watch Reviews’ Category:
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, New This Week, Watch Reviews
On-The-Wrist Review: Longio SG3824A Flying Tourbillon
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Recently there’s been a fair bit of discussion about the real value of a tourbillon complication here on The Watch Lounge and it was very positive to see reader’s voicing their opinions and getting involved in the discussion. What you may not realise was that the original catalyst for that article was a new timepiece we were lucky enough to get our hands on from Hong Kong based manufacturer Longio Watch Company. What makes this piece special is that not only is it fitted with a Chinese-made Seagull movement with flying tourbillon complication, but the actual case, dial, and so forth have all been made in-house. And to be honest, they haven’t done too bad a job.
On-The-Wrist
It’s no secret that China has been making watches, especially copies of high-end brands, for quite some time now. However, what is starting to happen is that these companies which traditionally manufactured components for European brands are starting to enter the luxury watch market themselves, with their own original branded products.
© The Watch Lounge
Longio is one such company, offering timepieces with a high-end complications such as tourbillons at far more affordable prices than any European brand has ever been able (or willing) to offer. The piece we received for review is identified simply as Ref SG3824A and features a manual-wind movement with Flying Tourbillon complication with Moonphase and Date.
Overall, on first impressions we have to say this is a pretty nice looking timepiece. The case is very well made and has a nice, solid feel to it and similarly the rubber strap is of good quality and very comfortable (an area many cheaper brands often cut corners.) The watch sits well on the wrist and the crown feels firm and secure when winding the piece. A sapphire exhibition case back gives a rather disappointing view of the movement which hasn’t really been decorated at all and is mostly hidden.
© The Watch Lounge
Unfortunately the dial, however, is no where near as impressive as the case it is housed in. Described by the brand as a “black cut-out dial with black indices” it looks exactly that, a few pieces of plastic which have been cut into shape and then layered over the top of each other.
This is a major sticking point in my book as you spend most of your time looking at the dial and the poor finish really cheapens the overall feel of the watch, which isn’t necessarily a fair representation of the quality. Similarly, both the hour and minute hands and moon-phase complication lack the polished-finish you would get in a European made watch which again is quite disappointing. Add to that the completely ineffective pushers located at 2 and 4 o’clock for the date and moonphase respectively, which despite several futile attempts, I could not get to function in any noticeable way and you soon see there are a few areas for improvement on this particular piece.
© The Watch Lounge
Obviously though the key selling point of this piece is the flying tourbillon complication, and it is undeniably eye-catching (if not lacking somewhat in accuracy, rated at +30/-30 per day.) As it rotates through its 60-second arc you eye can’t help but be drawn to its graceful trajectory, time and time again, and in my opinion this really saves the piece. The tourbillon itself is well-made and well-finished and it is possible to observe it in action from both the front and rear of the case.
Certainly this is a brand that is capable of making a good quality timepiece, there just not quite there yet.
Regardless, brands like Longio still have a veritable up-hill battle on their hands when it comes to overcoming all the damage done to China’s reputation as a result of years of producing cheap, unreliable goods and the country’s supposed inability to be creative. Harder still will be the job of convincing their own countrymen, who are presently enamoured with European luxury brands, that their product is worthy of patronage.
© The Watch Lounge
The Final Word
Undeniably Chinese manufacturers have continued to improve and certainly produced some top quality “homage” pieces over the last few years, however, these were priced at a much lower point in the market. A point, which some would argue, consumers felt comfortable paying. This new breed of luxury brands though is looking to raise the bar again. The timepiece we have here for review today for example will run you closer to $3k – $4k as opposed to the few hundred you would’ve have paid for the homage pieces.
Still, there will be those out there who simply appreciate and admire the tourbillon complication even though they (like most of us) could never hope to own one from one of the high-end Swiss watch manufactures and so these new pieces from Chinese brands like Longio could really provide a realistic alternative. They are fairly well-priced for what they are although you will get zero brand recognition, which may be a good thing if you’re not too proud about wearing a Chinese made timepiece.
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti – Who Said Classy Can’t Be Colorful?
As you are all no doubt aware Basel World will be upon us in a matter of weeks, with the world’s best watch and jewellery brands coming together in Switzerland to unveil their latest creations. We’ve covered a few of the ones that have really caught our fancy so far and will continue to do so in the lead up to the show. To date though, the focus has predominantly been on men’s watches and so we thought it was high time we brought you a ladies’ watch, and what a striking piece it is! Gentleman, you would be well advised not to let your wives or girlfriends read this.
You have been warned.
Colorful and Bold
Scheduled to be presented at Basel World this year, the new Big Bang Steel Tutti Frutti from Swiss watch maker Hublot is nothing short of stunning. Bold and colorful without being overwhelming, this latest piece exudes an exotic sense of style and power. At the same time the color-scheme is resolutely feminine, lending a touch of softness to this piece not always seen in oversized ladies’ models.
Presented on a pink alligator strap, the case is made of stainless steel with satin-finished endpieces. The beautifully simplistic fine mother of pearl dial is surrounded by 48 baguette-cut pink sapphires, providing the perfect blend of elegance and attitude and ensuring that this is a timepiece that will grab attention.
As we touched on before it is slightly large for a ladies piece at 41mm but there has been a growing trend toward women wearing 40 – 42mm men’s watches over the last year or two and we think given its bold design it is actually perfectly sized.
Powered by a mechanical automatic winding Hublot Calibre HUB4300 movement with chronograph function, this piece is not only attractive but also sophisticated and practical. Highly desirable qualities in any context!
The Final Word
Certainly this new piece from uber popular watch maker Hublot is not for everyone tastes and we daresay that it would take a certain kind of individual to pull it off. However, that’s exactly who its been designed for; strong, confident women who are looking for a distinctive way to express their own sense of style.
Unlike other ladies’ pieces we’ve seen in the past, the Big Bang Tutti Frutti combines a sense of sportiness and attitude with a touch of elegance, whilst all the time remaining absolutely feminine.
We love it! The question is, do you?
Ulysse Nardin El Toro. Technically Advanced? Yes. Attractive? Not Even Close!
Ulysse Nardin’s high-tech perpetual calendar complication is legendary in watch making circles around the world and has featured in many of their timepieces. This latest model, to be formally announced at Basel World this year, comes equipped with a dual time function and in-house developed and manufactured self-winding movement. Yes, the El Toro seems to have it all when it comes to technical competence, however, sadly it leaves a lot to be desired in the aesthetics department.
Poor Design but…
Described by Ulysse Nardin as “a powerful timepiece for everyday use”, it is certainly undeniable that the El Toro is fully of useful functions. These include; a perpetual calendar which is adjustable via just the one crown; 2nd time zone indication on the main dial with a patented quick setting mechanism; permanent home time indicated by 3rd hand and of course the big date in a double window at 3 o’clock.
Whilst on the one hand this information may be considered useful for day to day wear, it also has the unfortunate side effect of making the dial appear very cluttered. There are hands, and numbers and windows everywhere! Add to that a poor choice of color schemes and you have yourself what is really quite an unattractive piece.
Certainly this is not the worst looking piece we’ve seen but it is surprising to see something like this coming from Ulysse Nardin, a brand that typically produces more refined pieces which still incorporate strong technical credentials.
Perhaps the brand is trying a little too hard to stand out?
…Strong Technical Qualifications
Aesthetics aside, however, it is difficult to fault this piece’s mechanical aptitude. The COSC certified movement incorporates the only perpetual calendar that is capable of adjusting forwards and backward in seconds using the quick corrector position of the single crown. As an added feature the date, the day, the month and the year change instantly forward or backward when the hour hand is moved to a new local time which crosses the dateline.
What’s even more cool is that the hour hand can be adjusted instantly to the new local time by using the pushers located at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock respectively. This means you don’t even need to take the watch of your wrist when you enter a new time zone!
The 43mm case is available in a choice of either 18 ct red gold or platinum, with a ceramic bezel and is presented on your choice of a rubber strap with titanium/ceramic deployant clasp or a leather strap with folding buckle.
The Final Word
Technically this piece is exceptional. It incorporates a number of useful indications, including Ulysse Nardin’s highly regarded perpetual calendar complication not to the mention the ability to change the 2nd timezone with ease. Unfortunately, however, it has not come together very well in the design department and to be honest really leaves a lot to be desired from a watch that has been created to wear everyday.
Yes, the indications are useful, but they would be even more useful if you could bear looking at the dial long enough to decipher them.
Grieb & Benzinger Platinum – Taking Exclusivity To A New Level
So, you’re a sophisticated consumer with high disposable income and elegantly refined taste. You’re looking for something truly exquisite and unique, a one-off piece showcasing exceptional attention to detail and breathtaking craftsmanship. Well, perhaps it’s time your search got serious. We present to you the absolutely superb Minute Repeater 2 from super exclusive master watchmakers Grieb & Benzinger Platinum.
A Sense of History
Before we go into detail about this gorgeous one-off piece, however, it’s important you know the story behind this rather remarkable watchmaker. The ethos of Grieb & Benzinger is to craft unique wristwatches based on exceptional historic movements.
Their workshop is full of mostly historic special machinery and could easily double as an industrial museum paying ode to the pioneering spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet and the like. It is here in this very special space that original movements first crafted by the hands of some of the greatest old masters of horology, such as Patek Philippe, are lovingly restored and modified with painstaking precision.
The company typically only uses movements that have been built between 1880 and 1920 and feature high-end complications, such as minute repeaters. Staying true to the original masters, Grieb & Benzinger use the traditional machinery and hand-crafting techniques from the old days to create their unique style timepieces. In this way classic old watches are thus turned into new and exclusive fine platinum masterpieces, incorporating increasingly rare techniques of craftsmanship for the finishing of the movements such as skeletonizing, engraving and guilloche all by hand.
We think you will agree that the end results are simply breathtaking.
The Minute Repeater 2
This latest one-off piece is based on an original movement by Patek Philippe, an extra special Minute Repeater exclusively built for the famous New York based jeweler TIFFANY’s around 1887. Professionally modified into a Grieb & Benzinger style regulator – the movement has been restored, guilloché, hand-engraved and coated with blue platinum in preparation for being turned into a new, exclusive timepiece.
A movement this unique deserves to be housed in an equally as special and customized case and Grieb & Benzinger have not cut any corners. The 49mm case is made of a 130g of solid platinum as is the crown with steel application. The dial is hand-skeletonized and hand-guilloched with original Breguet Frost Finish, blued steel hands and polished and flame blued screws.
The attention to detail is evident in every aspect of this timepiece. The bridges and cocks have been guilloched, the steel striking hammers with 2 spiral gongs have been polished and all striking parts, levers and springs have been honed and beveled.
This is truly a masterpiece.
The Final Word
When it comes to exclusive, incredibly high-end, unicum timepieces the awe-inspiring creations of Grieb & Benzinger Platinum are undeniably up there. This newest offering, the Minuter Repeater 2, will give one incredibly lucky fine timepiece connoisseur the opportunity to add a truly outstanding, never to be repeated piece to their collection.
Be quick though, as this is the only one the world will ever see!
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